Portugal 2024: Lisbon - Baixa / Bairro Alto

During our 7 days stay in Lisbon, we would be taking transit to check out different areas including Alfama, Belém, Alcântara, Areeiro, and Cais do Sodré.  On our first day, while we were waiting to check into our hotel apartment in the Chiado neighbourhood, we decided to do a quick tour north of our accommodations to explore the areas that were close enough to walk to.  This would take us through the adjacent neighbourhoods of Bairro Alto and Baxia where we would see beautiful squares, sculptures, fountains and parks.  On subsequent days, we would explore some sites in the south part of these two neighbourhoods as we wandered around the waterfront.

We started at Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, one of over 20 viewpoints around Lisbon which are situated on higher ground, providing stunning views of different neighbourhoods and of the Tagus River.  Located in Bairro Alto, this viewpoint is amongst the most famous since it offers a great vantage point for admiring St. George’s Castle from afar.  The Miradouro is located at the edge of Jardim de São Pedro de Alcântara, a two-level park with the lower level accessible by a flight of stairs.  The tree-lined upper level has benches and picnic tables facing the vista, providing a pleasant place to rest while serenaded by street musicians. A kiosk-styled bar where people can buy drinks and snacks is located at the north end. At the centre of the upper level is a huge monument featuring the bronze bust of Eduardo Coelho, founder of the newspaper Diário de Notícias in 1864.  Below the bust is the sculpture of a barefoot newspaper boy, representing the old method of selling newspapers on the streets of Lisbon.

The peaceful and much quieter lower park can be admired from the upper park’s viewing platform, or you can descend the steps to stroll through it.  This lower area consists of a geometric garden with a classical design including stone busts of heroes and gods from Greco-Roman mythology including Minerva, Roman Goddess of Wisdom, Warfare and Arts, Ulysses, hero of Homer’s Odyssey, and Alfonso de Albuquerque, the 16th Century military commander known as “Caesar of the East”.  The space is divided into parterres or sections of green spaces decorated with flower beds and lined with benches, lamp posts and sculptures.  A fountain is imbedded in a stone wall and was originally part of the city’s monumental aqueduct system.  Public restrooms are also found in this level.

At the south end of the upper park is a detailed map made from a series of colourful azulejo tiles that depicts the landscape, identifying the buildings, monuments, landmarks and other points of interest visible from the lookout.  The map was created by Swiss artist and graphic designer Fred Kradolfer in 1952.  With its highest point located next to the entrance of Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, the Ascensor (or Elevador) da Glória is the second oldest funicular in Lisbon, inaugurated in October 1885.  Initially powered by a water counterweight system, it was later converted to steam power in 1886 and finally electrified in 1915.  From this top stop, the funicular travels down a steep slope to the Baixa neighbourhood below and then back up again to Bairro Alto, connecting the two neighbourhoods. Using the Navegante card and “zapping”, it would cost 1.6 Euros each way to ride the funicular.  If buying individual tickets instead, the ride costs 2.4 Euros in each direction.  On this first day, since we were pressed for time and there were many people waiting, we merely watched the funicular go up and down its route and then walked down the slope.  On a future day, we would take a ride on a different funicular.

At the base of the slope across from the lower funicular stop of Ascensor da Glória is Praça dos Restauradores, which is in Baixa. Translated as “Square of the Restorers”, the praça is named in honour of the heroes who restored Portugal’s independence from Spain in 1640.  A 30-metre-high obelisk at the centre of the square features bronze statues of Liberty and Victory facing in each direction, with inscriptions detailing significant dates and battles from the Portuguese Restoration War. Surrounding the square are hotels and restaurants situated in some historical buildings that are architecturally impressive and eclectic. Eden Hotel is located in a beautiful Art Deco styled building with a creamy pink marble façade that was open in 1931 as Cineteatro Éden.  A magnificent stone frieze depicting stylized actors and film crew spans the top of the building.  Altis Avenida Hotel is a luxury hotel with the word “Rossio” displayed in an Art Deco font at its roofline, possibly in reference to its proximity to Rossio Square or the rooftop Rossio Gastrobar. The former Mid-Century Streamline Moderne styled Condes Cinema was built in the 1950’s and is now home of the Hard Rock Café. Friezes decorate the curved edge of the building. Hotel Avenida Palace is another luxury hotel inaugurated in 1892 and designed in Neo-classical style with elements of Second French Empire and Beaux-Arts styles. Its façade includes Corinthian columns and wrought-iron balcony rails.  Blue Liberdade is a smaller hotel that stands out for its pretty blue façade which contrasts the shades of pinks and reds found in other buildings in the area.  An important building located next to Eden Hotel is the Palácio Foz, an 18th century palace with a pink façade that was unfortunately covered with scaffolding so that we couldn’t quite see it.  Today it houses a tourist office and the National Sports Museum.

Continuing south-west in the Baixa neighbourhood, we reached Praça Dom Pedro IV, which is also known as Rossio Square due to its century-old historic past as a common marketplace and gathering place for events such as political demonstrations, bullfights and even public executions.  The first thing that you notice even from afar is the wavy mosaic tiling on the ground that is a prime example of Calçada Portuguesa, a Portuguese paving technique using small pieces of limestone and black basalt to create intricate patterns.  In particular, the wavy design known as “Wide Ocean” was created in 1848 by Eusébio Pinheiro Furtado to honour Portugal’s maritime past.  A 23-metre Corinthian column topped by a bronze sculpture of Dom Pedro IV, King of Portugal and first Emperor of Brazil depicts the monarch holding the Constitutional Charter of 1826.  Below him are allegorical sculptures representing Justice, Wisdom, Strength and Moderation, which were considered virtues of the king during his brief reign.  A pair of identical bronze fountains flank the column, each consisting of mermaids holding shells with water squirting upwards into a central basin.

The last square that we visited before returning to our hotel to check in was Praca da Figueira which was once the site of a hospital before an earthquake destroyed it in 1775.  Today, the square is an open space used for temporary markets and is a major transportation hub with stops for multiple trams and buses, as well as entrances to the Rossio metro station can be found.  A huge monument of King John I seated on a horse sits in the middle of the square.  The square is surrounded by hotels, cafes and shops including an ornate Art Nouveau-styled storefront with Azulejo tiled panels depicting women surrounded by flowers.  At one time, this was the Animatógrafo do Rossio, a small cinema founded in 1907.  Unfortunately, today it is being used as an “adult” movie theatre showing sexploitation movies, as indicated by the words “Peep Show” painted on one of the green panels.

The Elevador de Santa Justa (also known as the Carmo Lift) is actually situated in Chiado, but its upper and lower exits connect Bairro Alto (the higher region) to Baixa. Considered one of the most iconic landmarks in Lisbon, the 7-storey, 147-feet tall neo-Gothic cast-iron elevator was built in 1902, providing relief from climbing steep hills to traverse between the two neighbourhoods.  Designed by Raoul de Ponsard who was an admirer of Gustav Eiffel, the elevator reflects French architectural styles including decorative wrought-iron patterns.  A pair of wooden elevator cabins have the capacity to carry 20 passengers upwards and 15 downwards.  The lower entrance of the elevator is at Rua do Carmo, the luxury shopping street which borders the edge of Baixa.  The upper entrance opens to an enclosed 82-feet long walkway heading towards the former Carmo Convent ruins, which marks the boundary between Chiado and Bairro Alto.  Stairs traverse from the ruins down to Largo do Carmo.  This is the last vertical lift/elevator in Lisbon.  Other hills have been converted to use funicular cars like the Ascensor da Glória.

Back on Rua do Carmo, in front of the elevator is a pinkish-purple sculpture of a girl holding a handheld vacuum.  The installation is titled “Sofia” and created in 2022 by a mysterious street artist known as “Superlinox” (Portugal’s version of Banksy).  Meant as a tribute to the victims of the Ukraine War, the girl is said to represent conviction and self-esteem.  The sculpture reminds me of the “Fearless Girl” sculpture that was installed on Wall Street in New York. Situated next to Bordalo II’s mixed media art depicting two pelicans, the works add a contemporary element to a historic area.

While some locals may use it for transportation, the elevator is a huge tourist attraction and there is always a long lineup waiting to get on for a ride.  Because of this, we put off trying to ride the elevator for many days but towards the end of our stay, we finally allocated the time for this experience.  Approaching from Rossio Square, we joined the line at the bottom of the elevator and waited for about 15-20 minutes to get on.  Using our Navegante card once again, the ride cost us just 1.61 Euros one-way (usually over 3 Euros per ticket).  While in line, we were able to admire the ornate details on the façade of the elevator and once inside, we could see the beautiful wood paneling.  Exiting at the top, we walked across the long walkway with its decorative ironwork and surveyed some great views of Lisbon.

We did not go up to the top viewing platform since it cost another 1.45 Euros and we already had a fairly good view from the walkway.  We could see the rooftops across the city and looked down upon the Carmo Archaeological Museum, Largo do Carmo and various squares around us.  This was a fun experience and checked off another means of Lisbon transportation using our Navegante cards.  We did not bother to wait for the elevator to go back down but simply walked down the stairs and continued on our way.

Located in the Praça do Município in Baixa is Lisbon’s City Hall which acts as the seat of municipal government.  The Neo-Classical building was built between 1865-1880 after the initial building was destroyed in the 1775 earthquake.  It has a monumental façade with a central pediment containing allegorical sculptures representing freedom, arts and sciences, and trade, flanked by Corinthian columns and ocular windows. This was the site where the Portuguese Republic was declared in 1910 after the last of the monarchy was overthrown.  Free guided tours are given on Sunday but sadly we were not there on the right day.  At the centre of the square is a twisted, octagonal Medieval pillory made from marble and stone that acts as a national monument and symbol of Lisbon’s Medieval past.  Also on the square are contemporary artworks that provide contrast to these historic elements. Red metal sculptures known as "Joaninas," were created by Portuguese sculptor Jorge Vieira in 1997.  Looking like a cross between humanoid forms and lady bugs, these sculptures are also installed along the ramp of the neighbouring Saba Car Park.  Nearby the square are more examples of decorative tile art.

Praça do Comércio is also known as Terreiro do Paço (Palace Courtyard) because it is where the Ribeira Palace (the main residence of the Kings of Portugal) once resided for over 250 years before it was destroyed by the earthquake of 1775, just like old City Hall.  The square was rebuilt in the 1800s, forming a U-shaped arc where government buildings, hotels, the Museum of Lisbon, tourist shops, cafés and restaurants now reside and abuts the Tagus River.  A triumphal arch features a clock on the side facing Rua Augusta and the statues of Glory, Ingenuity and Valor facing the square. In the centre of the square sits a bronze statue of King Jose I on a horse trampling over snakes.  On one side of the monument is angel blowing a horn while accompanied by an elephant.  These are supposed to represent Fame and Portugal’s overseas possessions.  On the other side is Triumph wrangling a horse.  Street performers can be found on the square including a giant Panda who was hoping for tourists to take photos with him for a fee.  We felt sorry for the panda since it was a hot day and he was not getting much attention.

One of the restaurants on Praça do Comércio is Can the Can, with the interesting advertising gimmick of serving “gourmet canned food”.  Portuguese canned products such as various types of seafood are combined with fresh ingredients to create modern Mediterranean cuisine.  The restaurant has a large covered outdoor seating area that provides a lovely view of the square, and from certain tables such as the one we snagged, also a view of the Tagus River.  We each started with a fruity glass of Sangria, one white and one red, which was perfect for a warm day.  For appetizers we had mushrooms with garlic, coriander and lemon sauce, anchovies on herbed toast with pickled tomato, lemon confit and chive oil, and the chef’s fish pate.

For our mains, I had the tuna steak sandwich with saffron aioli, arugula salad and sweet potato fries.  Rich chose the tuna pastrami sandwich on a toasted brioche with mustard, homemade pickles and coleslaw salad.  From our table, we saw an advertisement for the sale of garum, which is a fermented fish sauce widely used in ancient cuisines.  Rich bought a sardine garum to take home with us.  As nice as it was to sit outside, the inside of Can the Can had a cool décor as well with various cans and fish products lining the shelf and funky chandeliers hanging from the ceiling.  I always like to find interesting restroom signs or indicators of Men’s vs Women’s rooms, especially if they thematically match the restaurant.  Can the Can did not disappoint as the indicators consisted of a male scuba diver and a Barbie-like female doll each in a can.

Fado is a melancholic and intensely expressive genre of music that originated in Lisbon in the early 19th century, particularly in the areas of Bairro Alto, Alfama and Mouraira.  It consists of soulful singers of songs of love, longing and fate, accompanied by Portuguese and Classic guitars.  We went to Fado ao Carmo in Bairro Alto for a night of dinner and Fado.  Established in 2019 by renowned Portuguese musicians Luís Guerreiro and Rodrigo Costa Félix, Fado ao Carmo has gained the reputation of providing authentic Fado performances.  On the night that we were there, the male singer, who I think was Félix, performed first followed by a female singer and then they performed a duet which presumably was a love song that they sang to each other.

In between performances, we were served several courses including a meat croquette, grilled octopus salad, cod cake with salad, lamb chop with potato and asparagus, and finally almond cake ad cinnamon ice cream with cookie crumble.  The meal was fairly tasty, which made us slightly reconsider our opinion of traditional Portuguese fare since this was a much better experience than our first meal in Porto.

The restaurant was covered with Fado-related artworks and posters including a reproduction of the painting “O Fado” by José Malhoa which was purchased by the Lisbon City Council in 1910 and is on permanent loan to the Fado Museum located in Alfama.  It was interesting watching the waitresses react to the Fado performances.  With the lights dimmed for effect, the waitresses swayed with the music with their eyes closed and occasionally toasted to the singer with glasses of wine.

On our last night in Portugal, we wanted to try one more traditional Portuguese dining experience, which was the Flaming Sausage (Chouriço à Bombeiro).  This involves a taking a sausage that is scored to form ridges, placing it in a traditional piglet-shaped clay roasting dish, dousing the sausage with high-proof alcohol such as aguardente (Portuguese grappa) and setting it on fire to ignite the flames. The Chouriço sausage is like the Spanish Chorizo sausage, but less spicy and smokier.  We chose the restaurant Artis in Bairro Alto for this experience.  It was so much fun to watch the sausage cook in the flames at our table and it was delicious to eat as well.  I asked the waiter to show us the liquor used in the dish.

For the rest of the meal, we had Azeitão sheep’s cheese gratinee with oregano and toasts, and Beef “Pica-Pau” which consisted of small pieces of fried beef in a gravy made from white wine, garlic, oil, chili, and butter, then topped with black olives. Next came potato brava with a spicy sauce and a special shrimp gratin dish.  We finished the meal with a dessert called Bolo de Bolacha , made from biscuits soaked in coffee, layered on a sauce of butter, coffee, sugar and egg.  This was a very satisfying final meal to end our Portugal trip.