2024 Portugal: Lisbon - Chiado

The last leg of our 16-day trip to Portugal saw us traveling by the suburban train from Sintra to Lisbon, which departs every 20 minutes from the Sintra Train Station.  Since Sintra is only 40 minutes away and considered part of the Greater Lisbon region, we were able to use the Navegante card to pay for the ride.  In addition to suburban trains, Lisbon’s Navegante card covers many modes of transportation within the city including metro (subway), bus, historical trams, funiculars and elevators that help navigate the city’s many steep hills, and even ferries that take you to coastal regions across the Tagus River.  While in Lisbon, we planned to use as many different types of transportation as possible, some for transportation to remote locations and some just for the fun of it.

We arrived at Lisbon’s Rossio Train Station in Chiado, which was close to where we rented an apartment hotel.  Opened in 1890, Rossio Train Station has a beautiful Neo-Manueline façade decorated with maritime themes including knotted ropes.  There are two intertwined horseshoe-shaped portals and a clock housed in a small central turret. On a platform between the two portals is a 3-foot-tall stone sculpture of King Sebastian I, who took the throne in 1557 at age 3 after both his father and then his grandfather passed away.  This is a 2021 replica of the original 19th century sculpture which was destroyed in 2016 when a tourist climbed onto the platform to try to take a selfie and accidentally knocked it off its perch.  In front of a tourist shop to the left of the main entrance are two bronze sculptures titled “Soul of a People: Fado” depicting a Fado guitar player and female singer.  The sculptures pay tribute to Portugal’s tradition of Fado music which we planned to attend a performance of during our visit to Lisbon.

We had tapped our Navegante cards when entering the Sintra train station and tapped when exiting at Lisbon’s Rossio Train Station to calculate the cost of the ride.  Using the more economical zapping method of pre-loading funds on the card, the ride cost 2 Euros per person.  As a shortcut to our accommodations, we took the station’s back exit on the upper level and did not see that beautiful main entrance façade until later in the day when we toured the streets around our apartment.  Surveying the terrain around the train station, we could see how steep and hilly the streets were.  Descending to street level, we prepared for the trek ahead of us to reach our hotel.

The distance from our point of exit to our rental was a mere 300 meters as the crow flies.  Too bad we were not crows and could not fly!  To traverse those 300 meters, we had to climb Calçada do Duque, an extended staircase which consists of 8 flights of steep, wide, cobblestone steps with an elevation rise of over 60 meters, all while hoisting our luggage.  We stopped at many of the platforms between flights, ostensibly to take photos but more because we needed to rest!  Luckily when we left Lisbon to head to the airport, it did not involve returning to the train station so we did not need to lug our bags in reverse down these stairs.  Instead, we could walk to the Baixa-Chiado metro station which thankfully was downhill!

When we finally reached the top of Calçada do Duque, we had climbed several hundred steps and found ourselves in Largo Trindade Coelho, a charming public square where a few shops and restaurants were found, as well as our apartment hotel, Chiado Arty Flats.  We arrived at the hotel just before 11am and were able to leave our luggage behind to explore the surrounding areas until our room was ready.  Of all the places that we stayed on this vacation, Chiado Arty Flats offered us the best service.  We established a communications channel via Whatsapp and were able to reach them at any time, even off-hours when the desk was not manned.  We received a text message when our room was ready and other texts during our stay to inquire about breakfast and other needs.  There was thankfully an elevator which we took to transport our bags to our 3rd floor unit, but also a stairwell that we could use when we were less laden.

We were delighted by our apartment unit, which had a cool, funky vibe that more than lived up to the promise of being “arty” as indicated in the hotel’s name.  The beautiful hardwood floors and heavy wooden shutters framing two large windows hinted at this being an older building.  But this was contrasted by modern and artistic furnishing and décor including artwork over the bed which could have been created by a graffiti artist. The dark blue couch, accented with colourful striped pillows, was propped up by a series of large, bright orange ridged tubes that resembled something used on a construction site.  The light over the dining table emitted from a similarly shaped and coloured tube and the dining chairs matched the orange hue.  A big oil drum positioned next to the dining table was meant to be used as a serving platform.  As there was no electric washer or dryer (not a big thing in Europe), we washed our clothes in the bathroom sink and laid some smaller items on this platform to dry since it was close to the window and would catch the odd breeze from outside.  The bathroom sink was imbedded in yet another oil drum structure.  There was a bathtub/shower combination with plenty of hot water so that I could have a nice hot bath at the end of a long day of walking.  The full-sized kitchen including a refrigerator, microwave and kettle which was all that we needed.

We knew that our rental included breakfast, but we were blown away by what was actually offered.  On our first morning we were brought the gamut of all possible breakfast choices so that we could sample everything and then decide each day what we would like.  We received butter and chocolate croissants plus wheat and white bread, cheeses, sliced meats, two types of yogurts, an apple, orange and grapes, scrambled eggs, bacon, cereal, milk, orange juice and instant coffee! There was also a coffee machine with four premium coffee pods for those who cared about the quality of their coffee but it cost a fee to get more pods.  Since we were not coffee connoisseurs, we used up the four pods and then made do with the instant. This was way more food than we could manage so we scaled back the orders for future days.  Breakfast service starts at 7:45am but there were a few days when we needed to get an even earlier start.  On those days, I tried to cancel breakfast service but the hotel insisted on providing us with a “mini breakfast” which they put in our refrigerator the night before so that we could have something to eat.

While there was no washer/dryer (not easily found in Europe), there was an ironing board and iron so that I could finally de-wrinkle my clothes.  There were conveniently located electrical outlets by both sides of our bed and near the dining table but they required adaptors to switch from European to North American outlets.  I had brought along some compact adaptors that had both AC and USB A outlets, which worked great. The only downside of this hotel was the stickiness of the heavy wooden doors that required some force and finesse to open. When we first tested the door with Rich using his keycard outside and me trying to tug the door open from the inside, we thought for a few seconds that I was trapped in there.  Eventually Rich figured out the timing which required a good hard shove to get the door open from either side. Aside from this initial hiccup, this was the ideal location for us to stay while exploring Lisbon.

From the windows of our room, we had a great view of Largo Trinadade Coelho which becomes bustling during the day and evening, especially when the O Largo Restaurant’s outdoor seating is packed with patrons sipping on drinks and dining on snacks.  But in the early morning, the pretty square is eerily quiet with only a few dog walkers passing by.  In the centre of the square is a bronze statue depicting a street vender hawking lottery tickets which apparently was once a popular activity in Lisbon.  A small stand selling newspapers and cold soft drinks is surrounded by patio tables and chairs where passersby can stop for rest and refreshment.  At the far northern end of the square is the Church and Museum of São Roque which has a plain façade but apparently is very beautiful inside.  We did not realize this and did not go in.  In front of the church is a bronze sculpture depicting prominent missionary and preacher Father António Vieira, a holding a cross and standing with three indigenous Brazilian children.

Chiado is a vibrant neighbourhood full of historic landmarks, churches and museums, luxury shopping, small boutique and tourist shops, eclectic restaurants and cultural attractions.  Other than the onerous stairs to reach our hotel from the train station, Chiado was an ideal neighbourhood to make our home base since it was a short walk to the Baixa/Chiado or the Rossio metro stations which could take us farther afield, as well as multiple bus and tram stops.  We were also very close to many more restaurants and shops, which we explored on multiple days.

Rua da Misericórdia runs South along the Eastern edge of the square and is known for the colorful tiled façades of its buildings. This street has boutique stores selling trendy clothing, souvenirs stores, gourmet restaurants offering Spanish Tapas and Portuguese fare with Eastern influences, and a pizza parlour where we grabbed a few slices one night when we wanted a quick and light dinner at our apartment.  We wandered into one of the buildings on this street and came across a spectacular sculpture hanging on the wall.  We also spent some time browsing in Tómi Antique store which had two floors of eclectic items and furniture.

Largo do Chiado is a busy square where the main entrance to the Baixa/Chiado metro is located.  We would take this metro several times including heading to the airport at the end of our stay.  A bronze statue of António Ribeiro (nicknamed Chiado), a 16th Century satirical poet for whom this area is named after, sits in the middle of the square.  Created in 1925, the statue depicts Ribeiro wearing the habits of the Order of Saint Francis, which he was a member of.  He is leaning over as if to tell a joke.  Just west of this is Praça Luis de Camões, a vibrant meeting place named in honour of Portugal’s national poet Luis Vaz de Camões, who is known for the epic poem “Os Lusíadas”.  A 19th century bronze sculpture depicts the poet holding a sword in one hand and his poem in the other.  He sits atop a limestone pedestal surrounded by 8 smaller statues representing prominent figures from Portugal’s Age of Discovery including historians and other poets.

Casa do Ferreira das Tabuletas was constructed in 1864 for Manuel Moreira Garcia, a Galician emigrant and owner of the restaurant Cervejaria Trindade, which is still in operation in Chiado.  Built on the former grounds of the Trindade Convent, the façade is divided into 3 central panels that are covered with Azulejo tiles between columns of windows.  The house is known for its trompe l’oeil design where allegorical figures are painted on the tiles in the central panel.  The figures represent Earth, Water, Industry, Commerce, Architecture and Science. Masonic symbols also painted on the tiles, including a star containing the “Eye of Providence” on the central pediment and circular medallions with lion heads on the two side panels.

Largo do Carmo is a historically important square.  It was the former site of the Carmo Convent, a Gothic church that was severely damaged by the earthquake of 1755, leaving ruins that have been incorporated into the Carmo Archaeological Museum.  The museum contains Gothic tombs and artifacts from Roman and Moorish times.  The square played an important role in the Carnation Revolution of 1974 (which we learned about in Porto) when the ruling dictator Caetano surrendered here.  The square also marks the upper exit point of the famous Santa Justa Elevator which we would try to ride later in our trip.

The lower exit point of the elevator brings you to Rua do Carmo, a nearby upscale shopping street that acts as a transition point between Chiado and Baixa. The former storefront Au Bonheur des Dames has a beautiful Art Nouveau sign bearing its name and was originally a perfume shop in 1909 before transitioning to a women’s clothing boutique.  While the sign and façade still remain, today it seems to be an ice cream shop.  The Swatch store had a limited edition “Destination Lisbon” watch featuring landmarks of the city.  Luvaria Ullsses specializes in high-quality leather gloves known for their softness, durability and style with classic designs including bows, buttons and embroidery.  We could not get close to the store since it was packed with women waiting to try on the gloves. Joalharia do Carmo is a historic jewelry store established in 1924 that is known for its handcrafted jewelry including necklaces, earrings, bracelets and rings custom made with gold, silver, and precious stones.  Its window displays included circus-like animatronics that were fun to watch.  Rua do Carmo had some interesting street art including another work by Bordalo II, whose Half Rabbit sculpture we saw in Porto.  This time he created a pair of pelicans made from trash and recycled objects such as discarded plastics, car parts including bumpers, construction materials, hoses and helmets.

For our first meal in Lisbon, we selected a restaurant in Chiado close to our apartment.  After our first dinner in Porto, we realized that we were not fond of very traditional Portuguese dining.  Accordingly, we shifted gears for the rest of the trip and chose more modern or fusion restaurants.  Boa Bao is an Asian Fusion restaurant with elements of Thai, Vietnamese, Indonesian, Chinese and Japanese cuisines. As such, the menu offers a wide range of dishes including dim sum, sushi, stir fries, baos (steamed pita-like buns) and curries.  The décor is inspired by an old Asian market with an arched brick ceiling, wooden tables and padded leather seats, light bulbs enclosed by mesh coverings dangling from the ceiling and decorations including sculptures of monkeys climbing ropes and stylized dragons adorning the walls.  A large cocktail bar supports a menu of exotic cocktails.  Speaking of menus, we are presented with multiple menus for drinks and food offerings from different regions of Asia.

There were so many options that it was difficult to choose, but we finally decided on appetizers of duck spring rolls, breaded salt and pepper calamari with tamarind sauce, and a seabass bao with pickled yellow radish and chilli mayonnaise.  For our main course, we shared a Massamam coconut curry with tiger shrimp and bamboo shoots, steamed Chinese eggplant with garlic, soy and sesame and Jasmine rice. Although the cocktail list was impressive with interesting ingredients including lychee, cardamom, ginseng, guava, etc., we went for our favourite Pisco Sours which we recently acquired a taste for.  One of the more exotic drinks even came in a monkey-shaped cup, which I settled for getting a photo of.  I am always interested in what restaurants use as their restrooms signs to denote Mens vs Womens.  In this case, the signs depicted grizzly, wrinkled but happy faces of Asian elders. Adding to the ambience, the restroom doors were made of old, faded wooden planks made to resemble something that would be found in rural China.  Luckily behind the doors were modern toilets!

Walking home from Boa Bao after dinner, we were able to feel the ambience of the area at night.  Rua Nova da Trindade is a narrow street lined with trendy restaurants, many with outdoor seating.  Also on this street is Teatro Trindade, a theatre dating back to 1867 that hosts operas and other theatrical performances.  At night, the theatre is lit up with bright purple hues that can be seen from a distance.   One early morning, we took the Calçada do Duque staircase down towards Baixa to catch a bus at Rossio Square.  Going down the illuminated stairs (without luggage) was a much more pleasant experience and it was quite pretty.  We also caught a glimpse of St. George’s Castle which was also lit up.  We would visit it when we toured the Alfama neighbourhood.

From the many restaurants on Rua Nova da Trindade, we decided to try Gunpowder, a modern, high-end Indian tapas restaurant with very innovative dishes that were different from the more traditional Indian restaurants we have back in Toronto.  There was not a butter chicken dish in sight!  We started with gram flour pakora fritters of tempura covered French beans and a Oothappam (rice crepe) stuffed with Chettinad pulled duck breast and carrot salad.  Rich had a glass of wine with the meal while I sipped on a passionfruit mojito.

There were so many delicious-sounding items on the menu that we would have loved to try them all.  As it is, we ordered way more than the waiter thought we could eat, but somehow, we managed!  Next came tuna croquettes with chive mole sauce.  This was described as a Portuguese influenced snacks from the Goan region.  My favourite dish was the Karwari fried soft shell crab with a sauce from southern Goa.  Described as a “Spicy lamb & vermicelli donut”, what we got was a giant breaded croquette stuffed with minced lamb meat in a tomato-based sauce.  Our last two dishes were grilled artichoke hearts in a red pepper Masala sauce and Nagaland crispy braised pork from Alentejo in a spicy tamarind glaze with steamed rice.  I usually love rice but we had so much food that I hardly touched it.  This was one of the best meals that we had on our Portugal trip.  I just wish we had time on our schedule to come back and try the other dishes!

Largo do Chiado is home to one of the most iconic, historic and beautiful eateries in Lisbon. Open since 1905 as a shop to import and sell Brazilian coffee, Café A Brasileira is designed in Art Nouveau style with a gold and green façade.  A curved sign depicting the establishment’s name hangs above the entrance.  The sign is decorated with curlicue flora features and the iconic image of the man in green holding a coffee cup that is used as the café’s logo used on its packaging, mugs and more.  The sign is flanked by reclining nudes who appear to be leaning forward as if peeking into the café.  The luxurious interior is even more stunning with mosaic tiled flooring, mirrored walls, paneling made from sculpted wooden pillars, pink coffered ceilings with gilded decorations and hanging chandeliers, brass fittings, a long oak bar, wooden booths, ornate chairs and a Art Nouveau gorgeous clock at the back.  This was a popular meeting place for writers, artists, and intellectuals including Fernando Pessoa, a Portuguese poet who is represented by a bronze sculpture installed in front of the café in 1988.

We had passed by A Brasileira several times during our stay in Lisbon, hoping to get a table for breakfast or dinner but it was always full.  Towards the end of our stay, we arrived mid afternoon and finally were able to be seated for a late lunch/early dinner.  We ordered a lemonade for me and a Portotonico (mixture of white port and tonic water) and shared a burrata salad with pesto, tomato, and smoked ham as well as a meat and cheese served with bread slices.  After our meal, we decided to buy some dessert to take back to the apartment to eat that night.  We selected a Nata, a Palm Leaf pastry and a chocolate mousse cake.  The food was fine but we were really there to enjoy the gorgeous setting.

Chiado had some great shopping opportunities and we made the most of them!  We had been reluctant to buy much while we were in Porto or Sintra since we knew we had to lug anything that we bought from one location to the next (and we knew those stairs were ahead of us in Lisbon).  Now that we were here, we let loose and purchased multiple items. Returning to Rua da Misericórdia, we visited D'Orey Azulejos, which sold both antique and “faux-antique” tiles.  We selected a quirky, contemporary blue and white Portuguese tile depicting a wide-eyed, large breasted woman surrounded by fish.  The handmade tile by artist João Costa Durante was “distressed” to simulate aging.  At Refèm Men’s store which was right next to our hotel, Rich picked up two snazzy linen shirts so that he could dress like a stylish European.  While planning for our trip, Rich had decided that he wanted to bring home a vintage bottle of Port that he could not get at our local liquor store.  To accomplish this, we checked a suitcase for the first time in over 10 years!  The port that he selected was from Kopke, which is the Port House where we did our port tasting in Porto.  He found a bottle at Casa Havaneza which was located next to Café A Brasileira.

Also across from the café is Vista Alegre, a Portuguese luxury porcelain manufacturer and retailer that was founded in 1824 with a patent granted by King Dom João VI, making it one of the oldest and most prestigious porcelain factories in Portugal.  The company produces dinnerware, crystal pieces and decorative porcelain with some so elaborate that they could be mistaken for museum pieces.   An interesting centrepiece bowl is made from a ring of ceramic sardines.  We had seen a similar bowl made from porcelain bananas but this was the first time we saw one with sardines.  I particularly liked the orange pop-art styled vase titled “Sombras” (Shadows) by Lourdes Castro with a faint outline that seems to depict a person eating a piece of fruit.  We admired a series of decorative plates from the “2i collection” where Vista Alegre invited renowned artists to design illustrations for the plates.  We purchased a rectangular plate by Valerio Vidali depicting people sitting on a subway car.