Scotland 2025: Glasgow - Necropolis, Cathedral, Buchanan Street

After spending 7 days in Edinburgh, we were ready to head to Glasgow for 4 days. We took the train from Edinburgh Waverley Station to Glasgow Queen St. station, purchasing first class tickets since the cost difference was a mere £5 more.  Traveling first class gave us more luggage space, a quieter cabin, wide reclining seats with more legroom, and a large table with power outlets where I could use my laptop during the 1.5-hour ride.

When on vacation, we always look for an entire apartment with a living area and kitchen (or at least a refrigerator) as opposed to a hotel room.  We like the extra space and the ability to store milk, fruit, juice and other foods so that we can eat breakfast and potentially some dinners “at home” rather than requiring to dine out for every meal.  The best option is the “apartment hotel” since we get the kitchen that we crave, but also a manned front desk where we can leave our luggage prior to check-in time or get assistance for any issues that arise during our stay.  

We found the perfect accommodations in ApartHotel Adagio which had the ideal location, just a few blocks from the train station and mere steps from St.Enoch subway station, access to the River Clyde, grocery stores and Buchanan Street, a pedestrian area featuring high-end shops and restaurants.  As we were only there for a few days, we chose a studio apartment that had a kitchen and a desk for my computer which was all we needed.  The front desk was able to stow our luggage while we explored Glasgow until check-in time and as an added bonus, there was a coin-operated laundromat so we could do some laundry.  We had a much easier time than in Edinburgh where we rented a private apartment and had to arrange for access to keys, pay to store our luggage at a Bounce Luggage Storage site and communicated with our host via WhatsApp to report issues.  We hope to continue to book apartment hotels in our future travels.

Some interesting architecture and sculptures can be found near our hotel.  St. Enoch Square, a prominent public space that was developed in the 18^th century and once had Regency-styled buildings including St.Enoch Church. Today, the oldest buildings are from the 19^th century including the former National Bank of Scotland.  Built in 1906, its façade features allegorical sculptures of Peace and Purity holding doves, flanking a winged sun motif representing security, prosperity and financial growth.   At the centre of the square is an ornate 1896 Flemish Renaissance building that was once the Glasgow Subway ticket office and sits within the footprint of the former St. Enoch Church.  Today it is a location for Caffe Nero, a shop selling coffee and pastries.  Also within the square is a small Tesco supermarket, takeout eateries and other shops and restaurants as well as two entrances to the St.Enoch subway station.  Running perpendicular is Argyle Street, which marks the end of St. Enoch Square to the south and the start of Buchanan Street to the north.  Argyle is one of Glasgow’s longest and busiest shopping streets. The former Stewart & McDonald Warehouse at 146 Argyle features a pair of muscular Titans with bowed heads and crossed arms, holding up the building with their shoulders.

Arriving in Glasgow just after 10am, we dropped off our bags at the hotel and headed off towards the Glasgow Necropolis, hoping to make it there before the rain in the forecast came to past.  Along the way, we passed several historic buildings including the Glasgow Royal Infirmary, designed in the early 20^th century in Scottish Baronial Revival style with red sandstone, corner towers, cupolas and detailed stonework. Provand’s Lordship is Glasgow’s oldest surviving house, constructed in 1471 as accommodations for the head of St.Nicolas’ Hospital.  Next to the house is St.Nicolas Garden, built in 1995 to recreate a 15-century hospital Physic Garden with medieval medicinal herbs.  The Victorian-styled Cathedral House Hotel was built in 1877 and was originally a hostel and habilitation centre for ex-prisoners from Duke St. Prison.  Today, it is a boutique inn with 8 rooms, a bar and restaurant.  Just before reaching the Necropolis, we spotted an early 20^th century blue Mackenzie Trench-designed Police box that once served as a mini police station with phone and equipment inside.  Sold off in the 1990s-2000s, this one has been converted into a coffee kiosk.

Glasgow Necropolis is a beautiful, 37-acre Victorian garden cemetery established in 1833 to reflect the city’s industrial wealth.  The main entrance is accessed over a stone bridge (colloquially known as the “Bridge of Sighs”) that once spanned the Molendinar Burn (river).  Built on a small hill, the Necropolis was modeled after Paris’ Père Lachaise Cemetery and is laid out as an informal park with ornate graves and sculptures. Starting on lower ground, tombs and monuments are found on either side of a meandering path that follows the curve of the hill, rising up to a plateau.  Along the way, we found the tomb of William Miller (1810-1872) with the designation “Laureate of the Nursery, Author of Wee Willie Winkle” (a Scottish nursery rhyme).

The Necropolis was developed by the Merchants’ House of Glasgow after the 1832 Cemeteries Act promoted the creation of private, inter-denominational burial grounds that were not associated with any church or religion.  It hosts around 50,000 burials with 3500 monuments.  Along the crest of the hill are massive mausoleums for notable families including the Aiken family who were wine and spirit merchants, and the Buchanan Sisters of Bellfield Estate, who were philanthropists funding hospitals and charities.  Even from the base of the cemetery, we could see the massive column with the sculpture of Scottish minister and Reformer John Knox towering over the other structures.  The John Knox monument was actually erected in 1825, pre-dating the cemetery.

The rain started as we climbed towards the top of the Necropolis, making the stone steps slippery but the darkened skies added to atmosphere. Coincidentally, it had also rained when we visited Père Lachaise years ago.  There were many impressive tombs at the top of the Necropolis, as well as stunning views of the city below.   We got a closer look at the John Knox monument, which towers over the rest at 70 feet.  Nearby is the slightly smaller monument to Reverend Duncan Macfarlan, Principal of University of Glasgow which stands at 58-feet.  Also impressive is the sculpture of Charles Tennant, an industrialist and chemical magnate who patented bleaching powder in 1799.

A couple of beautiful mausoleums stood side by side.  The William Rae Wilson Mausoleum has a striking Moorish design with intricate carvings on the stone façade while the interior is clad with white marble.  Wilson (1772-1849) was a solicitor, traveler and author of popular travelogues detailing trips to Egypt and the Holy Land.  The Houldsworth Mausoleum is flanked by a pair of angels representing “Hope” and “Charity” while a magnificent sculpture of “Faith” sits inside under an octagonal dome with stained glass. Sir William Houldsworth (1796-1851) was a cotton magnate.  Further away, and in rough shape since it is cordoned off, is the Norman Temple Mausoleum.  Built in 1842, the circular Neo-Norman temple was inspired by the Knights of Templar Church of the Holy Sepulchre.  It honours Major Archibald Douglas Monteath, who amassed his wealth as an East Indian Company officer and was known for his philanthropy.

Positioned at the lowest level of the Necropolis and one of the earliest areas to be built and populated was the Jewish Burial Grounds, a small triangular plot that held 57 burials between 1832-1855.  The area is marked by an ornate gate and pillar.  The first burial was jeweler Joseph Levi who died of cholera in September 1832.  A commemorative plaque unveiled in 2015 lists the names of the 57 individuals buried in this section.  Just outside the cemetery grounds is a stone pillar titled “Bell o’ Brae” Monument.  It was unveiled in 2016 to mark the legendary 1297 Battle of the Bell o’ the Brae where Wallace was said to have defended against the English. The pillar features a sword and a knight’s helmet.

Just west of the Necropolis and visible from its hillside is the Glasgow Cathedral, one of Scotland’s oldest medieval cathedrals dating back to 1197 and the only one to survive John Knox’s Reformation intact.  Built over the tomb of Glasgow’s patron saint Mungo, it sits in Cathedral Square and marks the birthplace of the city.  Light posts in the square are decorated with the symbols tied to St. Mungo (also known as St. Kentigern) including a tree, bell and fish, all related to miracles that the saint performed. Gothic expansions through the 13^th to 15^th centuries transformed the cathedral from a Romanesque structure to a Gothic one.  These changes are reflected in the 203-foot-long nave with its pointed arches, and a timber roof peaking at 105 feet with ribbed stone vaulting and clustered columns.  High up towards the back of the nave are four tall lancelets decorated with stained glass windows depicting “The Four Evangelists” (Matthew, Mark, Luke and John) by Francis Spear (1951).   In the north aisle of the nave is Douglas Strachan’s Moses Window (1936), depicting key scenes from the life of Moses including his encounter with the burning bush and receiving of the Ten Commandments.  It is noticeable due to the vivid colours of the glass.

Glasgow Cathedral has one of the most diverse collections of stained-glass windows spanning from Victorian to contemporary eras. No medieval windows remain as they were all destroyed during the 1560s Reformation. The range of windows reflect the changing decorative and storytelling styles across the generations. Sadie McLellan’s Christ and the World’s Beauty window (1955) portrays Christ holding a lamb in the central lancelet, resting atop a cosmic tree of life while surrounded by fruits, trees and floral designs. One of the most impressive windows is Francis Spear’s “The Creation” (1958) which includes an almost cubic depiction of Adam and Eve in a purple hue, surrounded by celestial elements including the sun, moon, stars and roses.  Moving towards the 21st century, the Millennium Window by John K. Clark (1999) depicts themes of growth with vibrant shades of blues and purples, using etched mouth-blown glass, painting and silver staining for layered light effects.  Emma Butler-Cole Aikin’s Tree of Jesse (2018) is a contemporary interpretation of Jesus’ ancestry, using the colours of the symbolic tree to represent Jesse, David, Solomon and Isiah with a central red ribbon representing Christ’s blood line. The most recent work is the Burgh Charter Window by Talia Blatt (2025) which celebrates Glasgow’s 850-year anniversary by depicting the Cathedral amid changing landscapes through history.

Down in the basement, we saw examples of window fragments made from Munich glass which was used to produce vibrant stained-glass windows in the 19^th century using a mosaic-enamel technique.  Unfortunately, these windows did not last long due to effects of pollution which caused the painted surfaces to deteriorate.  Also in the lower levels is the crypt housing St. Mungo’s tomb, built in the mid 1200s and the site of major medieval pilgrimages. The crypt features vaulted stone ceilings and large pillars with a coffin at the centre covered with a colourful cloth topped by a cross.  The last medieval addition from the late 15^th Century is Blacader Aisle, named after Archbishop Robert Blackadder.   Initially designed to be a crypt for a chapel that was never built, it features beautiful, white-painted stone ceilings with elaborate carvings on corbels and vault ribs that depict angels, foliage, and Blackadder’s coat of arms (mitre/crozier and cross keys).

Leaving the Cathedral, we returned to our hotel by walking the 700 meters span of Buchanan Street starting from the north at Sauchiehall St.  There we found the Glasgow Royal Concert Hall, open in 1990 as home of the Royal Scottish National Orchestra, as well as hosting pop and rock bands and other live music performances.  Next to it is the Buchanan Galleries, a major shopping mall with over 80 stores, eateries and services.  Continuing south towards Argyle St., we passed many high-end flagship stores, luxury brands and cool restaurants, as well as a museum that we would visit later.  There were also interesting sculptures and architecture to admire.  Buchanan St. has been pedestrianized since 1977, attracting heavy foot traffic, buskers, street festivals and events.  Each time we visit a new city in Europe that has a beautiful pedestrian-only stretch of road, we wish that Toronto would follow suit.

Towards the south end of Buchanan Street are flower beds that contain decorative sculptures made from wicker including representations of a man in a suit, woman in a dress, cocktail glass, stiletto show, treble clef and a teddy bear.  These are probably temporary displays as Buchanan Street is known for its rotating street art.  One day we also came across a street artist creating sand sculptures of very realistic looking dogs.

One of the landmarks on Buchanan St. is the Argyll Arcade, open in 1827 as Scotland’s first indoor shopping mall and one of Europe’s oldest covered arcades.  The structure was rebuilt in 1904 in Edwardian Baroque Parisian style with covered passages topped with cast-iron framed glass skylights, a glazed roof and arched entrances.  The façade is red sandstone with the words Argyll Chambers emblazed on the first balcony and ornate mosaic tiles above the entrances depicting the words Argyll Arcade, 1904 and the coat of arms of the Reid family who developed the arcade.  Higher up are a pair of allegorical female figures representing commerce and industry.  Today, there are over 30 jewelers in the arcade specializing in luxury watches, diamonds, wedding rings, and other jewellery.  Being a vintage watch fanatic, this was a must-see stop for Rich in Glasgow.  Luckily the arcade was situated very close to our hotel so I was able to leave him there to explore on his own one day while I returned to our apartment to rest.  He had fun trying on various watches.

Another iconic shopping mall on Buchanan St is Princes Square or Princes Gallery. Originally built in the 1840s, it is recognizable due to the stunning Art Nouveau-styled sculpture at the top of its façade.  Crafted from hand-forged wrought iron and steel shaped in the form of a 10-meter-wide peacock, the work was actually added during a major renovation in 1990.  As eye-catching as the exterior is, the interior is just as stunning with a massive cast-iron framed glass dome roof that is much larger and more impressive than in the Argyll Arcade.  The five-storey retail centre is accessed by a pair of symmetrical, criss-crossing wooden escalators clad in polished timber and sweeping staircases with Art Nouveau designed railings.  Throughout the mall are intricate wrought-iron designs, decorative glass orbs and mosaics, and custom lighting.  The atrium offers patio-like seating area with umbrellas in the centre as well as a replica Foucault’s Pendulum which hangs off to one side, adding extra interest to the site.  High end shops and eateries line the sides of each level.

We only discovered the gorgeous interior of the Princes Gallery after walking into the chocolate shop Hotel Chocolate from Buchanan Street. Here we found so many flavours of delicious truffles that we returned several times to buy more. All told, we bought two packs of Orange Mimosa, as well as packs of Salted Espresso Martini, Mint, Peanut Butter, and Pistachio truffles which we proceeded to eat for the rest of our trip through Scotland. Moving to the back of the store, we found the drinks bar and sat down for a chocolate orange and chocolate black forest cherry milk shakes topped with flavoured whipping cream (of course!)  As we were savouring our drinks, we noticed the back exit that led to the mall and that is how we stumbled upon the interior of Princes Gallery.

In addition to shops, there are also many restaurants on Buchanan Street and we dined at two of them.  The first was Chaophraya Thai, a fancy Thai restaurant (considered the largest in Europe) that we happened to pass by as we were returning from the Cathedral.  What attracted us initially was the building called “The Townhouse” which is a historic 1909 Edwardian Baroque styled building with a striking red sandstone façade and a pair of stone lion heads on either side of the entrance. The building was formerly the home of the Royal Scottish Academy of Music and Drama before being transformed into a Thai restaurant in 2012.  The redesign blended the building’s historic features with Thai décor, making for a unique and eclectic combination.  The interior retains its Edwardian features including high ceilings, ornate plaster cornices, marble floors, timber paneling, period fireplaces, a brass chandelier and a grand staircase.  Thai elements have been intermixed including a wooden elephant, stylized Thai Buddha sculptures, Thai styled wooden tables, screens and throne chairs with intricate carvings.  Upstairs where the main dining room was, we saw more examples of the building’s past relationships with music as the stairwells were decorated with decorative plasterwork with plaques hailing “Schumann”, “Mendelssohn”, “Brahms” and “Wagner” while a bust of Beethoven is flanked by two more Buddhas.

While admiring the building, we were tempted by the menu choices advertised and decided to stop here for lunch.   We opted for the lunch special that allowed us to select 5 Tapas dishes for £25.  There were so many delicious sounding items that it was difficult to decide.  We finally chose Karage chicken with Thai basil spice mix, Vegetable Pad Thai with tamarind sauce, lime and crushed peanuts, a bun with sous vide beef strips and Panang sauce, chicken/shrimp steamed wontons topped with crispy fried garlic and spring onions, and eggplant tempura topped with stir-fried diced peppers and onions in a chilli-basil sauce.  We received complementary shrimp chips and should have been satisfied with this order but could not resist adding the crispy pork belly coated in a sweet soy sauce.

On another evening, we dined at The Ivy on Buchanan St., again choosing it as much for its gorgeous décor as for the culinary experience. The Ivy is a stylish, sophisticated restaurant that offers a mix of British classics and international fare. There is an opulent Art Deco-inspired main dining area filled with plush banquet seating, thematic upholstery with floral motifs, wall coverings of deep greens, golds and plum adorned with art and framed mirrors, marble floors and tabletops, hanging foliage and large plants. Two bars are decorated with polished onyx countertops known for their translucent, gem-like colours. You can sit at the bars to order drinks and lighter fare or book the private dining room called The Morgan Room for events and special occasions.

We both opted to choose from the 2-course fixed menu which came with a free glass of Champagne for £27.95. For the starter, Rich selected the crab and avocado salad with sliced radish, tomato and coriander accompanied by spinach crispbread and it arrived on a very cool plate decorated with a large metal crab.  I chose the crispy duck salad with roasted cashews, sesame, watermelon, ginger and hoisin sauce.  For our mains, I had the Mediterranean sea bass fillet with smoked aubergine, toasted almonds, olive, and tomato/sherry dressing while Rich ordered the chicken Milanese with truffle sauce, served with a fried egg and greens. We added an order of zucchini fritti with lemon chilli and mint yogurt as a side to share. This was the second meal in Glasgow where we ate great food in a beautiful setting.

I really enjoyed the ambience of The Ivy and all the fun art on the wall including bold, colourful prints.  If it wasn’t so crowded, I would have walked around the restaurant more to get a closer look at some of them.

Scotland 2025: Edinburgh - Dining

We dined at some interesting pubs during our 7-day stay in Edinburgh, including The Last Drop, which is decorated with nooses in reference to its proximity to public executions in the 17th century, and Sheep’s Heid Inn, which is thought to be the oldest licensed establishment in Edinburgh dating back to 1360.  At these traditional pubs, we ate the typical Scottish pub fare including haggis in many forms, Balmoral Chicken and sticky toffee pudding.  I was initially concerned that we would be eating the same pub food for our entire trip, but happily, we also frequented eclectic and fun eateries that offered different meal choices.

One of our more unique meals was at Makar’s Gourmet Mash Bar which was also one of the hardest places to get into, since it was always packed with huge lineups and long waitlists.  As its name alludes to, Makar’s offers nine different flavours of mashed potato including classic butter, mature cheddar cheese, smoked applewood cheese, mustard, smoked bacon/spring onion, black pudding, chili, horseradish or vegan with olive oil.  After picking your mashed potato base, you then select from a variety of toppings featuring choices of meats (lamb shank, beef shoulder, haggis, wild boar, or chicken), plant-based (carrot/chestnut, lentil/herbs) or mushrooms with home-grown mushrooms from an in-house mushroom farm. Rich and I both decided that we wanted the smoked bacon/spring onion mashed potato as our base. Since mushrooms are my favourite food, I selected the Summerhill Specialty Mushroom consisting of sauteed wild enoki, king trumpets and lion’s mane mushrooms, topped with fresh tarragon, served on a tower of mashed neep, all sitting on top of a tarragon cream sauce.  I was torn between this and the breaded lion’s mane bites in a whiskey cream sauce, but I was happy with my selection.  Rich picked the beef-lamb haggis on a mound of heather honey and turnip puree served with a whiskey cream sauce.  Humorously, a ceiling hatch found above a neighbouring table was labeled “Haggis Escape Hatch”, playing on the myth of the “Wild Haggis”.  A cheeky poster on the wall displays the iconic image of Robbie Burns but wearing dark shades with the caption “I’m Sexy and a Poet”, playing on the song “I’m Sexy And I Know It”.  All this made for a very fun vibe.

Bertie’s Proper Fish & Chips is a popular seafood restaurant on Victoria St that specializes in sustainably sourced haddock coated with a classic, light and crispy batter (or breading if desired), twice-cooked fries and tartare sauce, following traditional British chippy standards.  The many side choices include coleslaw, mushy or garden peas, onion rings, mashed potato, gravy or a variety of sauces.   Interesting sounding appetizers included fish pakora in a sweet chili and sour cream/mint dip or haggis spring rolls.  We opted to supplement our fish and chips order by sharing Bertie’s Fritto consisting of cod bites, haddock goujons, sampi and squid rings along with a mixed salad.  Bertie’s had a stylish décor including a neon sign that read “Fry Me To the Moon”, aquatic-themed décor and cartoons by Frank Boyle, formerly of the Edinburgh Evening News.

Oink is a fast-food chain that serves roasted hog (pulled pork) and lamb sandwiches with a variety of sauces and toppings.  You can order a Piglet, Oink or Grunter (Small/Medium/Large) sandwich on a white or wheat roll with sage/onion or haggis stuffing and a choice of apple sauce, mustard mayo, BBQ sauce or various chilli sauces. The location closest to us was also on Victoria Street just a few buildings away from Bertie’s Proper Fish and Chips, but it was always busy with long lineups.  We stopped by several times to watch as the server scooped up pulled pork from an entire roasted hog displayed prominently in the window.  We finally got into the eatery just before closing time one evening and snagged two sandwiches, but unfortunately, by then all the crackling was gone.

Another popular chain that has a store on Victoria Street is Knoops, a chocolate drinks café known for its crafted hot and cold chocolate beverages as well as milk shakes and mochas.  The term “Knoopology” highlights the concept of choosing from a curated chocolate menu ranging from 28% (white) to 100% (extra dark) cocoa content, along with a variety of milks (whole/semi-skimmed/skimmed, lactose-free, oat, almond, soy, coconut, hazelnut), spices (sea salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, peppers, chilli, cardamon, anise, turmeric), herbs (orange, lemon, lime, ginger, mint, lavender, rosemary, matcha, vanilla) and extra toppings (marshmallow, whipped cream, pistachio whipped cream).  We tried a hot chocolate with with 43% Venezuela cacao bean which is described as “smooth with notes of hazelnuts and butterscotch” and added orange flavour to it.  For our second cup, we created a mocha using 49% Venezuela cocao bean with notes of molasses, pecan & coffee and added pistachio flavouring.  Both were tasty but the hot chocolate was a bit too sweet.  I wish we had something like this in Toronto since it would have been fun to continue trying different combinations.

Located just off the Royal Mile, the Chocolatarium is a high-end chocolate shop that offers a wide variety of local and international, organic and fair-trade chocolate bars and truffles, as well as hot chocolate and specialty chocolate shapes.  There were so many flavours to choose from that it was hard to decide but we bought a nice selection both to eat while in Edinburgh as well as a few bars to take home to Toronto.  In addition to selling chocolate, the Chocolatarium also holds 90-minute guided tours on the chocolate-making process from bean to bar, allowing tourists to create their own chocolate bars and taste from over 40 varieties of chocolate.  The tour was quite expensive and we didn’t have the time for it anyway, so we settled for selecting three chocolate bars including black forest/cherry, carrot cake and orange flavours as well as a box of truffles. From outside the shop, we had a great view of some of the structures atop Carlton Hill including a circular tower that was once the Governor’s House and part of the old Carlton Jail complex from 1817-1927, and a 90-foot-tall obelisk called The Political Martyr’s Monument, erected in 1844 as a tribute to five political reformers who were transported to a British penal colony in Australia in 1794.

The Scotsman Steps is a historic landmark which connects Market Street (across from Waverley Train Station) to North Bridge.  Built between 1899-1902, it consists of a set of 104 spiral steps enclosed in an octagonal tower that was once part of the building that housed the Scotsman Newspaper.  Today it acts as a pedestrian link between Edinburgh’s Old Town and New Town.  The steps were originally made from sandstone but through an artistic project in 2011 by artist Martin Creed, they have been reclad with different types and colours of marble sourced from Belgium, Brazil, India, Italy, Norway, Pakistan and more.  Passing by late one evening after a Fringe show, we came across these steps on Market Street and wondered where they led.  We climbed them to the top where we saw a stunning view of a lit-up Balmoral Hotel.

Exiting the Scotsman Steps onto North Bridge, we also found the Scotsman Hotel which has taken over the old Edwardian newspaper building.  The Scotsman Hotel is a luxury 4-star boutique hotel that retains many of the architectural features of the original building including stained glass windows, wood paneling, ornate plasterwork, marble pillars and a grand marble staircase.  We ducked into the hotel to admire the interior architecture and came across the Grand Café, which is the hotel’s main restaurant set in the former advertising hall of the newspaper offices.  Feeling a bit peckish, we decided to grab a table in the beautiful restaurant where we could have a late-night snack while enjoying the luxurious décor and being serenaded by the piano player performing on a balcony up above.

The Grand Café serves classic brasserie-styled cuisine throughout the day, as well as a luxurious full Scottish breakfast and afternoon tea.  For our after-show snacks, we ordered three appetizers including a truffled macaroni and cheese, a confit chicken and leek terrine with carrot, hazelnut and endive salad topped with crème fraiche, and Scottish crab meat on a crumpet topped with brown crab butter, apple and radish.  These were all delicious and hit the spot for our late-night munchies.  The piano music was also delightful but I just wish that we could see the pianist better.  This was an unplanned and wonderfully unexpected experience that we stumbled upon accidentally but ended up being a nice way to end our evening.

After spending 5 days rushing between museums and the Fringe Festival, we finally had time for a leisurely lunch on our last day in Edinburgh before leaving for Glasgow.  We decided to visit the Caledonian Hotel on Princes Street which was constructed between 1899-1903 as part of the Caledonian Railway’s Princes Street Station.  It has an impressive red sandstone façade designed in Neo-Renaissance style with Flemish influences in its grand arches, steep pitched roof and detailed gables.  Corinthian columns support a decorative pediment while the façade is adorned with allegorical figures representing Art, Commerce, Science and Agriculture.  Many of the interior features remain including the station clock, stained glass windows depicting railway stops and ornate marble finishes.  Lunch was being served in “The Court”, a large, spacious space with high ceilings that felt like an open-air courtyard flanked by walls that imitated the red sandstone of the building’s exterior.  The archways of doors leading in and out of The Court are decorated with wooden carvings of the Royal Coat of Arms of the United Kingdom.  A beautiful Art Deco inspired bar and a piano lounge can be found at the back while the front of the dining area offers plush seating, modern chandeliers and a large skylight from which we watched the rain fall during our lunch.

This was by far our priciest meal befitting the setting of the swanky hotel.  We considered it our one splurge meal after eating relatively frugally during our previous days in Edinburgh, mostly due to time constraints.  Rich started with a Rob Roy cocktail which was invented in the Waldorf Astoria in New York City in 1894 (and was named after an operetta).  Given that the Caledonian had been rebranded as the Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh between 2011-2024 before reverting to its original name, this seemed like an apt selection.  My bottle of water cost £5 ($10 CDN!) but I guess it was not socially acceptable to ask for tap water in a place like this.  We started with a potato leek soup and a Scottish smoked salmon with shallots, crème fraiche and croutons.  For mains, we both selected the lobster roll with clarified garlic butter and fries and shared a side of green beans with roasted cashews.

The Court offers a wide range of desserts including a set of pastries and sweets that can be ordered as part of the “Sweets of the World Afternoon Tea”.  Since we already had lunch, we opted for desserts offered a la carte and the restaurant literally had a dessert cart where an eclectic selection of desserts was on display for our inspection.  I chose a chocolate brownie that tasted more like a giant Ferrero Rocher chocolate while Rich’s dessert was an “Invisible Toffee”, which was a playful version of the traditional sticky toffee pudding.  The bowl arrived with a rich, moist pudding hidden by a cloud of cotton candy floss.  Once the sweet, sticky toffee sauce is poured on top, the candy floss dissolves to reveal the pudding topped with creamy whisky ice cream.  The ceremonial pouring of the sauce was part of the event for this dessert. The walls outside of the restrooms were decorated with colourful vintage-styled tiles depicting street vendors and tradespeople from historic British cities from the 19th and 20th centuries.  The tiles were accompanied by playful labels reflecting market cries of the time including “Chairs to Mend” and “Scissors to Grind”.

Scotland 2025: Edinburgh - Miscellaneous Cool Streets

In addition to the major museums, royal residences and cemeteries that we visited in Edinburgh, we also came across miscellaneous streets with interesting architecture and shops or funky outdoor street art.

Right around the corner from our rental apartment on Grassmarket, West Bow Street and Victoria Street form a pair of steep curved adjoining streets that lead to George IV Bridge, running parallel to the Royal Mile.  The streets are full of historic charm and are lined on both sides with colourfully painted buildings whose ground floors are home to restaurants, pubs, and boutique shops including old bookstores and stores selling items associated with magic and wizardry.  In fact, West Bow is nicknamed “Diagon Alley” after the fictional wizardry shopping street in the Harry Potter books.  West Bow is also associated with Major Thomas Weir, a 17th century soldier and occultist who was believed to be a witch, and Lord Ruthven, implicated in the murder of Mary Queen of Scot’s secretary David Rizzio.  From Victoria Street, stairs lead up to Victoria Terrace, which is a balcony walkway that runs above parts of West Bow and Victoria Streets.  More restaurants are found on the balcony and the stunning views of the streets below have been the subject of many iconic photographs.

The Bow Well is located at the west end of West Bow Street where it meets Grassmarket.  Erected in 1674, this is Edinburgh’s first piped water supply. Amongst the many eateries on Victoria St., the Elephant House is a popular café that gained fame as one of the places where J.K.Rowling wrote her first two Harry Potter novels.  Shops that deal with Harry Potter, magic or mysticism include Museum Context, the Red Door and John Kay’s book and antique shop.  Other shops sell touristy souvenirs, clothing and more.

Several interesting sights can be spotted on George Street including sculptures and architectural design.  The statue of James Clerk Maxwell can be found near St. Andrew Square.  Created in 2008, the sculpture depicts the seated Scottish physicist who formulated the theory of electromagnetic radiation in what became known as the Maxwell equations.  A plaque with these equations sits on the ground in front of the statue. Maxwell also pioneered colour theory in optics, demonstrating that any colour can be created by mixing the primary colours of red, green and blue.  At his feet is his Irish Terrier Toby, making this the fourth dog sculpture that we have found in Edinburgh after the two dogs in cemeteries and one in Scott’s Monument.  Also, on George St. is The Dome, a bar, restaurant and nightclub, which occupies the former 1847 headquarters of the Commercial Bank of Scotland (originally Physician’s Hall in late 17th century).  The venue is named for the distinctive glass dome that covers the central lobby.  Finally, the beautiful friezes at the top of the Standard Life Building are titled “Foolish Virgins” and “Wise Virgins”, carved some time between 1897 and 1901.

Perpendicular to George Street and not far away from the Portrait Gallery is the historic garden park St. Andrew Square, named after Scotland’s patron saint.  Constructed starting from 1772, it became the first part of the “New Town” (post Medieval construction).  It was initially surrounded by a wealthy residential area before evolving into a central commercial and financial district where many banks reside including the Royal Bank of Scotland.  At the centre of the square is the Melville Monument, a Doric column with a statue of Henry Dundas, the first Viscount of Melville at the top. While previously honoured for being treasurer to the Navy as well as Lord Advocate and Keeper of the Scottish Signet, Dundas is currently also being called out for delaying abolition of slavery.  A bench facing the monument is adorned with a sculpture of Paddington Bear eating a sandwich that was installed in 2024 to help promote the new movie, “Paddington in Peru”.  Also in the square is a large, 8 foot tall, 17 feet long stone carving known as the “Lion of Scotland” that is a symbol of national pride.

During the Edinburgh Fringe Festival, the famous “Spiegeltent” is temporarily installed in St. Andrew Square.  This is a renowned traveling cabaret that has a circus-like feel.  Made of wood, mirrors, stained glass and rich fabrics, it evokes the European cabaret circuses of the 1920s.  Performances are hosted during the festival including music, magic, circus acts and variety shows.  This is also a centerpiece for the Edinburgh Jazz & Blues Festival which is held around the same time.  While approaching St. Andrew Square from George St., we spotted a very unique structure in the far distance that had a distinctive spiral design.  Known locally as the Ribbon Building, this is actually the 12-storied W Edinburgh Hotel with includes a rooftop bar with 360 degree panoramic views.

The façade of the Waverly Bar on St.Mary’s Street features a purple climbing man sculpture that was anonymously installed during the COVID lockdown.  At the corner of Rutland St. and Lothian Rd are a pair of cool sculptures.  A brightly decorated fiberglass Highland cow is part of a 2006 art initiative known as the “Cow Parade” or “Coo Parade”, where a series of over 100 cow sculptures were installed across the city.  A seated laughing child sculpture seems to be part of another initiative since we saw a similar sculpture on the Royal Mile.  After learning about the murderous reign of Burke and Hare during our cemetery tours, we were amused to find a pole-dancing and strip bar named after them in Haymarket.  I really liked Fabhatrix Hat Shop on Cowgatehead, admiring the vintage-styled hats and gloves in the window each time we passed by.  On Candlemaker Road, after thinking about it for several days, I finally succumbed to temptation and purchased a pair or Scottish themed rubber “duckies” including one playing the bagpipes in full tartan and one in the shape of a duckie but designed as a horned Highland coo.

Scotland 2025: Edinburgh - Edinburgh Castle, Holyrood Palace, Holyrood Park

Built on Castle Rock mainly as a strategic military fortress, the historic Edinburgh Castle was a symbol of Scottish power that was fought over between the Scots and the British for centuries.  First completed as a Medieval castle in 1103 under King Malcolm III, it was continually expanded between the 12th-16th centuries with the additions of St. Margaret’s Chapel (12thC), King David’s Tower and fortifications (14thC), the Crown Square which included the Great Hall and royal apartments (15thC), and artillery platforms to support new technologies including cannons (16th C).  In addition to its military role, Edinburgh Castle served as the Royal Residence until 1633. Once the royalty moved across the Royal Mile to Palace of Holyroodhouse, the military took over and turned the castle into a true fortress and garrison, stripping away much of its decorative features including stained-glass windows.  Today, Edinburgh Castle is one of the most famous tourist attractions in the city and can be viewed prominently from many locations in the Old Town including Grassmarket where we were staying.  Several lengthy flights of stairs brought us from Grassmarket to Castlehill at the top of Castle Rock.  Just outside the castle is the Witches’ Well, created in 1894 by Celtic Revival artist John Duncan to commemorate the people executed for witchcraft in the 16th and 17th centuries.

We entered the site by walking through the Edinburgh Castle Esplanade, a large open area with stadium seating set up on three sides to support the annual Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo held each August. To enter the castle, we walked through the Portcullis Gate which consists of a large archway flanked by bronze sculptures of Scottish hero William Wallace and King Robert the Bruce, installed in 1929 within neo-Gothic niches.

Being on top of a hill, spectacular panoramic views of Edinburgh can be seen from the castle walls including the Royal Mile, Holyrood Palace, Holyrood Park including Arthur’s Seat and even the North Sea on a clear day.   Some of the best vistas can be found on the battery walls including the Half Moon Battery on the east side which overlooks the castle entrance.  Fun views can be found while peering through the embrasures or holes where the cannons point out of.  Not only do the rectangular openings frame the scenery, but they give you a sense of the defensive areas that these cannons would have supported back when the castle was in use as a military base.

The Scottish National War Memorial is one of the most impressive buildings in Edinburgh Castle. It serves as Scotland’s place of remembrance for those who died from WWI up to current day.  On either side of the entrance are silver-grey granite sculptures of a lion and a horse, holding shields of the Union Jack and the Cross of St.Andrew respectively.  In a recess above entrance is a figure representing “the Survival of the Spirit” with an eagle symbolising strength, vigilance and remembrance at its base.  Fantastical, animal-like gargoyles can be found at the top of the tower and in smaller recesses are allegorical figures representing Courage, Justice and Peace.

Photos are not allowed inside the War Memorial out of respect for the dignity and reverence of the setting but there are photos on the internet of this beautiful interior.  Books of Remembrance or Rolls of Honour are kept within a sealed steel casket located on an altar within the memorial’s shrine, listing the names of the Scottish service men and women who died in each war.  Relief carvings depict military scenes including soldiers marching or in battle, and the wounded being nursed, as well as some religious scenes. A series of brightly coloured stained-glass windows created in 1927 depict relatively modern images including tanks, artillery, zeppelins, bi-planes, and soldiers blowing bugles.  Other windows are religious or historic in nature.  The theme of the décor reflects valour, sacrifice, justice and triumph of peace over war.

The only other building in Edinburgh Castle that does not allow photography, probably for security reasons, is the “Crown Room”.  This is where the “Honours of Scotland” are kept.  Made of gold, silver and precious metals, these are the oldest surviving Crown jewels in Scotland, consisting of the crown, sceptre, and sword of state that were first used for a monarch’s coronation in 1543.  During the wars of the 17th Century when Oliver Cromwell’s troops were attacking, the honours were hidden in a church in the hamlet of Kinneff, which we happened to stop by later on in our trip.

Built for King James IV between 1509-1511, the Grand Hall served as the 95-foot-long space where royal ceremonies and state banquets were held. It features a vaulted, Norwegian wood hammerbeam roof decorated with stone corbels with motifs including the Royal cipher, the Scottish Thistle, a female bust which is the symbol of love, and a Lion’s Head which is the emblem of Scottish Royalty and Christ.  A famous painting known as “Ensign Ewart capturing the French Eagle at Waterloo” depicts the cavalry charge of Ensign Charles Ewart of the Royal Scots Grey in 1815, symbolizing Britian’s defeat of French Imperial power.  The massive, ornate stone fireplace is adorned with four elegant allegorical figures carved in the Renaissance style.  Set high above the fireplace is “Laird’s Lug”, also known as “Lord’s Ear”.  It is a small iron grate used as a peephole for kings to listen in on the conversations of their guests. Many Medieval weapons are hung on the walls including swords, axes, spiked spears and rifles.  After Oliver Cromwell’s siege in 1650, the hall was transformed into barracks and a military hospital.  Between 1887-1891, it was restored to its original splendor, adding back the roof, paneled walls and stained-glass windows.

There are several military museums within the grounds of Edinburgh Castle.  The Royal Scots Dragoon Guards Regimental Museum focuses on the history and campaigns of this calvary regiment that has been existence since early 1700s.  The Royal Scots Regimental Museum displays artifacts from this group that was founded in 1633. The largest museum is the National War Museum of Scotland which contains artifacts from 400 years of Scottish military history.  The museums contain displays of military artifacts including arms and weapons, uniforms, medals, paintings and dioramas of famous battle scenes, recruitment posters, maps, personal items and more.  A highlight found in the Scots Dragoon Museum is an actual gilded bronze eagle and standard (regimental flag) captured from Napoleon’s army at the Battle of Waterloo.  One diorama shows Ensign Kennedy who was mortally wounded while clutching the British Standard.  A Sergeant tried to remove it from his grasp but was unable, so he hoisted the dead solider and carried him back to their home base.  Another interesting exhibit showed examples every day objects being used to hide secret messages including a chess set with compartments that concealed a map, saw, compass and currency to help out a prisoner of war escapee.

In addition to the cannons that we saw pointing out of embrasures, there were also two special guns.  An extra-large 6-ton cannon or “bombard” nicknamed “Mons Meg” was created in Mons, Belgium in 1449 and was gifted to King James II in 1457.  With a barrel diameter of 20 inches, it could fire huge cannonballs weighing up to 385 pounds that could travel over 2 miles.  As per its name, the “One O’Clock Gun” is a daily tradition where a 105mm field gun is fired exactly at 1pm each day, harking back to 1861 when businessman John Hewat introduced the idea as a way to signal the time to ships and locals alike.  Today, it is fired merely for the enjoyment of the tourists. In front of the National War Museum is a bronze sculpture of Field Marshal Sir Douglas Haig sitting on his horse on top of a rocky terrain. One and a half times larger than life-sized, the sculpture honours the first Earl of Haig’s wartime leadership during World War I and his welfare work for ex-servicemen.  The Prisoners of War Exhibition recreates the conditions that prisoners faced between the 1700s to early 1800s.  On display are wooden doors with graffiti scratched on them, items crafted by prisoners including wood boxes, chess sets, intricate models of ships, prisoners’ rations, and examples of living quarters for ordinary sailors and soldiers as opposed to officers.

While most of Edinburgh Castle is devoted to the military, there are still Royal Apartments above the Crown Room that were the residences of the Stewart monarchs starting with the reign of King James IV in the mid 15th centuries until King Charles I in 1633.  One of the rooms is the birthing chamber where Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to King James VI.  A large display contained embroideries created by Mary while in exile in England after fleeing Scotland.  The oldest surviving building on the site is St.Margaret’s Chapel, a small Romanesque stone structure built in 1130 by King David I to honour his mother, Queen Margaret.  The chapel fell into disuse and was used as a gunpowder store in the 1500s before being restored in the 19th century.  Nearby is a small, enclosed pet cemetery that was established in the 1840s as the final resting place for regimental officer’s pet dogs and mascots. The oldest visible grave from 1881 is for Jess, a terrier belonging to the military band of the Black Watch 42nd Royal Highlanders.  

Palace of Holyroodhouse (aka Holyrood Palace) has been the official residence of the British monarchy in Scotland since the 16th century and is used for official events and ceremonies.  Built with a blend of Renaissance and Baroque styles, major additions were added in the 16th and 17th centuries. The oldest surviving part of the palace is the King James V Tower, built between 1528-1536.  It was where Mary, Queen of Scots had her chambers and the site of the murder of her secretary David Rizzio, who was killed in front of her by her husband Lord Darnley and his accomplices. The decorative stone fountain outside the palace is topped by a crown hoisted by armed soldiers holding spears. Below are historical figures including Rizzio and Queen Margaret, followed by sculptures of lions and unicorns and then a series of lion heads.  Erected in 1858, it is based on a fountain built by King James V in 1538 at Linlithgow Palace, 24 kilometres west of Edinburgh.  The Quadrangle is a central open courtyard area designed in the 1670s to resemble a monastic cloister.  It has 3 floors plus an attic with the ground floor serving as service areas (kitchen, storage, etc.), the first floor has State Apartments and the Royal Apartments are on the second floor.  The decorations of the façades are progressively more ornate as you get higher up, reflecting the functions of each level.  There are Doric columns on the ground floor, then Ionic on the first floor and finally Corinthian columns on the second for the Royal Apartments.  In the centre of the courtyard is a stone fountain sitting on perfectly a manicured lawn.

Photos are not allowed inside the palace but we were given audio guides that told us interesting facts about each room along with images of the room. Following our tour, I sat at the outdoor café and took screenshots of some of those images as well as finding more on the internet.  The first area that we encountered was the Grand Staircase, where the walls are lined with tapestries and 16th century Italian frescos while the magnificent 17th Century Baroque ceiling is adorned with plaster angels holding the Honours of Scotland.  The stairs lead to the State Apartments which includes the room that had been used as a Guard’s Chamber, the King’s Drawing Room, and a Dining Room before being converted into a Throne Room in 1871.  Today a pair of thrones are on display which were designed for King George V and Queen Mary. On the next level up is the Royal Apartments where the King’s Bedroom is found, featuring a four-poster bed covered in red damask.  We also saw the suite of Mary Queen of Scots including her bedroom and the outer chamber where the murder occurred.

The Music Room was added in 1670 under Charles II for the purpose of holding private musical performances and intimate receptions.  This elegant room is decorated with gilded cornices, pale wood paneling, ornate plaster designs with musical motifs, giltwood chairs, a candelabra and musical instruments including a piano and a harp.  A curved alcove enhances acoustics for chamber music recitals.  The most interesting room is the 150-foot-long Great Gallery, the largest room in the palace, which serves as the main processional and state gathering place.  The room has two grand, marble fireplaces, a row of windows spanning the entire length of the room, facing a wall containing 96 portraits of Scottish monarchs painted between 1684-1686 by Jacob de Wet the Younger on behalf of King Charles II.  Our audio guide told the amusing story of how King Charles hoped these portraits would support his claim to the throne since he obviously had the genetic trait of the “family nose”.

The Gothic and Romanesque styled Holyrood Abbey was founded in 1128 by King David I after experiencing a miraculous event where he encountered a white stag during a hunting expedition and saw the vision of the Holy Cross (or Rood) between the deer’s antlers. In thanks, he created the abbey for the Catholic priests of the Canons Regular of St.Augustine.  Many historic events occurred at the abbey over the centuries including coronations, weddings, funerals and births.  Various parts of the abbey were destroyed during conflicts over the years and then fell into total ruin in the late 17th century due to religious and political turmoil added to structural damage caused by harsh weather and years of neglect. Today, the surviving ruins of the abbey include the central hall of the nave which features soaring, pointed Gothic arches, ribbed vaults, and large windows with intricate, ornamental stonework including a section that delineates the previous existence of Gothic windows. From the exterior, you can see flying buttresses that remain to support one of the remaining walls.

Although the roof has been destroyed since the 17th century, enough of the abbey remains so you can image its former grandeur. Royal vaults beneath the abbey contain the remains of Scottish monarchs including King David II, James II, James V and Lord Darnley (2nd husband of Mary, Queen of Scots).  Grave slabs of Augustian canons and abbots are embedded in the nave’s floor while tomb markers of noble families and Royal Dragoon guards line the walls.

The gardens in Holyrood Palace cover 10 acres of landscaped terrain with lawns, flower beds, sculptures and fountains.  A multi-surfaced sandstone sundial was created in 1633 and presented by King Charles I to his queen Henrietta Maria to commemorate his Scottish Coronation at the Holyrood Abbey. There are twenty dials with metal surfaces carved as spheres (or gnomons) that allow the sundial to cast a shadow.  Rectangular mounds near Holyrood Palace are the remnants of the foundations and walls of Holyrood Abbey's eastern end and associated monastic buildings. These visible earthworks and stone outlines mark where the choir, transepts, and possibly other abbey structures once stood, extending eastward from the ruined nave you still see today. The mounds correspond to the original footprint of the medieval abbey, built in the 12th century by David I, and evidence suggests they may also include graves, chapels, or the abbey house itself. From the palace grounds, we could see clear views of the hills in Holyrood Park.

Holyrood Park is a 650-acre Royal park just east of Holyrood Palace that is known for its dramatic hills, steep crags, picturesque lochs, grassy meadows, and an extinct volcano called Arthur’s Seat that is the highest point in Edinburgh at almost 825 feet. We had planned to hike around the park and climb to the top of Arthur’s Seat during our 7-day stay in Edinburgh.  Unfortunately, there was a huge bush fire in Arthur’s Seat just a few weeks before our trip and much of the park was closed.

We checked daily on the status of the closures but they did not reopen by the time we had to leave the city.  We had one last chance to visit the park on the last day of our trip (22 days later), when we would return to Edinburgh to fly home the next morning.  Arthur’s seat was still not accessible but we could at least walk around other areas in the park.  We arrived back in Edinburgh around mid afternoon, but when we arrived at the main parking lot at Queen’s Drive at the top of the park, we found the entrance blocked. Feeling defeated, we decided to give up and proceed to Sheep’s Heid Inn for an early meal. Once we parked the car by the restaurant, we realized that we were very close to the bottom of the park and might be able to walk in from there. As we strolled in that direction, we found that access to Duddingston Low Road was also blocked, but there was a long, steep staircase that would allow us to finally access Holyrood Park. Climbing for what felt like for forever while passing through grassy slopes and rocky areas, we arrived up to a plateau.

Luckily, there was a bench at the top of the stairs and we gratefully sat there to rest while taking in the spectacular view of the city below.  As expected, the path leading up to Arthur’s Seat was still blocked, now over 5 weeks after the fire.  Although the flames had been extinguished, there was still danger of falling rocks and crews were still assessing the damage.  Unable to complete our originally planned circuit of the park up to Arthur’s Seat, we instead headed clockwise along Queen’s Drive which runs in a circle around the outer edges of the park.

While making this trek, we saw people heading towards and standing at the top of what was probably Crow Hill.  Had we been able to get here at the beginning of our trip as we first hoped, or even if it wasn’t so late in the day before we could finally get into the park, we might have considered making this climb.  But by now we were exhausted and worried about the prospect of rain and darkness, so we just admired the hill from afar and continued on our way.

We had some nice views as we passed Dunsapie Loch, which is an artificial reservoir created in 1844.  Small waterfowl were swimming in the water and rocky outcrops of volcanic and sedimentary geology including Dunsapie Hill could be seen in the distance.  Continuing along, we reached Margaret’s Loch and from there we spotted the ruins of St.Anthony’s Chapel which was likely built in the early 15th century.  We were debating whether or not we had time to hike up the hill to reach the ruins for a closer look when the skies darkened and it started to rain.

This made our decision easier and we counted our blessings to have made it this far in our quest to visit Holyrood Park since it was looking hopeless just a few hours ago.  We turned around and retraced our steps, continuing to enjoy the vistas.  Descending back down the stairs was much easier although the big wide steps still were a challenge for my short legs.  We were gratified to pass a much younger man as he made the climb that we had completed earlier and noted that even he was huffing and puffing.  It is too bad that we were not able to explore more of Holyrood Park including access to Arthur's seat (which finally reopened on October 19) but I'm glad that we were able to get a taste of the beauty of the surroundings.

We rewarded ourselves with dinner at Sheep’s Heid Inn, which is the reputed to be the oldest licensed eatery in Edinburgh, dating back to 1360.  The inn had many royal visitors in the past including Mary Queen of Scots, Bonnie Prince Charlie and Queen Elizabeth II as well as famous literary figures such as Robbie Burns and Sir Walter Scott.  Theories about the etymology of name of the inn include its history of serving a sheep’s head dish (no longer on the menu!) or the story that King James VI presented the owner with a ram’s head snuff box.  Today, the place is decorated with the heads of rams mounted on the wall and there is a plaque commemorating Queen Elizabeth II’s last visit.  From the gastropub menu, we started with pan-fried scallops served with crispy prosciutto, roast butternut, wild garlic salsa verde, and crispy sage, as well as beef croquettes with a horseradish sauce.  For our main course, I had the signature dish of slow-cooked pork belly, pork fillet wrapped in prosciutto, roasted apple ketchup, dauphinoise potato, broccoli, and a rich gravy.  Rich went for the Scottish favorite of Chicken Balmoral, which is a chicken breast stuffed with haggis, then wrapped in bacon and served with a whisky or peppercorn sauce, all on top of a bed of mashed potato and broccolini on the side.  He ordered the same dish at Last Drop Inn on our first day in Edinburgh and liked it so much that he wanted to have it again.  We ended the meal by sharing a sticky toffee pudding. 

Then Rich had a surprise for me.  He asked the waitress whether we could take a peek at Skittles Alley, Scotland’s oldest surviving bowling alley dating back to 1880, which was found at the back of the restaurant.  Skittles is a traditional pub game similar to bowling where players knock down skittles pins by rolling a wooden ball down an alley.  Skittles consists of 9 wooden pins arranged in a diamond shape with a smaller, lighter ball that has no holes.  The lane is shorter and narrower than a contemporary bowling alley.  The Skittle’s Alley at Sheep’s Heid can be rented for private functions.